I had two other potential topics slotted in for this one, and had stalled in deciding which one to tackle, much less begin on. Then yesterday my gut decided I should be spending a lot more time in the bathroom, and I didn’t get to either of them. Finally stabilizing much later, I still decided to put the whole post off until today, and instead just started checking out Walkabout Estates by the headlamp, as is my wont. That’s what led to the topic for this post, and this is a little more of a ‘learn from my mistakes’ thing, but also partially the frustration of not being able to effectively monitor certain things.
The two key portions of the preceding video were the video camcorder, and the off-camera lapel mic that connected to the parabolic dish – both of these failed, solely because of batteries. Let’s do this in order.
The mic connected to the parabolic dish is a Sony ECM-44B lavalier mic, which uses an internal AA battery for power. This can last quite a long time, but there’s no on-off switch for it, so I have to assume that the power doesn’t flow until the recording source is reading from it. There also is no external indication that it’s working, no LEDs or anything, so really, the only way to tell that the battery is still good is to check what was just recorded. That’s how I got caught by this one, in that I really didn’t know I was capturing inadequate audio until I’d returned from getting the video clips and reviewed them. I was extraordinarily lucky in that I could return to capture more once I’d replaced the battery, and that enough audio existed on the first clips that I could enhance it, though the quality certainly suffered from that.
Right before I set out on the second session, I plugged the mic into the little digital recorder that I use from time to time when only audio is needed; this has the ability to monitor the audio realtime, so I could tell that it was working. The camcorder doesn’t have this option. So the primary way to tell if the mic battery is still good is to switch the recording source and test it, which is not a huge hassle, but enough of one when you’re trying to capture something that might disappear at any moment. Another way is to voltage test the battery, but the Sony mic has a screw-on sleeve over the battery compartment that has to slide over one of the wires exiting the housing, so I can’t actually do this while the mic is mounted to the video rig. Stupid, fussy little things.
And then there’s the camcorder battery. Now, I’d fully charged it just over a week previously to have it handy for a wedding that I was shooting, but didn’t actually use it. So the sum total of legitimate drain on the battery was about two minutes of goose video in the past week. That’s it. When I went out last night and began the recording, I did indeed check and the battery indicator was reading 3/4 charged – which is not where it should have been, but adequate. Except it wasn’t. With just a few minutes of actual operation time, it was dying. That’s not acceptable.
Now, where was the failure? Just over a week of merely sitting should not be enough to drain a lithium-ion battery, which have enormous shelf life and charge integrity, more so since this was an extended capacity 3000 milliamp-hour version. The camcorder even has an automatic shutoff after two minutes of standby, so it’s not like I forgot to shut it down. So this leaves four potential causes:
1) As I was heading up the road tracking the sounds, I was using the video camera to record the audio, but it was likely also trying to autofocus on virtually nothing, since I hadn’t turned on the external video light yet. The occasional appearance of a streetlight as I aimed roughly at the noise source (the parabolic mic attached to the video stabilizing rig) might have made the autofocus struggle to snag something, draining more power than normal. Still, this seems excessive, since this was two minutes of active recording time;
2) Parasitic drain. I already know the camcorder has a tendency to use a little power when completely inactive and turned off, which no device should ever do. I understand it in things like TVs, which maintain a trickle flow to keep components warmed up enough to turn on instantly, but there’s no such excuse for a camcorder. Even the internal clock should use such a trivial amount of power as to be inconsequential, since my wristwatch uses a little 3v ‘coin’ battery to last for five years doing the same thing while also displaying it;
3) A bad battery pack. They have a life of course, and will lose longevity as they start to die out. This seems most likely, and this one’s been getting a lot of use in the past year or so;
4) A bad charger. Also a possibility, and next to impossible to distinguish from a bad battery.
Therein lies the problem. Determining which of these causes, if not multiple ones, has no simple solution. If you’re lucky enough to have a multitester that determines amps, you can test a battery to see if it’s not up to full charge (in this case, 3000 mah) when fully charged, and narrow it down to a bad battery or charger. But then, it’s a matter of replacing one or both to determine which it was. Also note that the amp-hour rating for batteries is notoriously exaggerated, with few actually hitting the numbers they claim, so testing them when brand new is the only way to know when they’re dropping off. If you have a tester that tells amps, which I don’t.
As for the autofocus using too much power? That would take a decent amount of testing to determine, with careful notes of actual longevity. Not worth it to me, just something to keep in mind as a potential drain.
Parasitic drain? The best solution is to remove the battery between uses, and I do this with the audio recorder because I know it will run its own batteries dead just sitting in a drawer for a couple of weeks. It’s also better for the dry-cell batteries like AAs and such, since the same drain can cause them to corrode and leak. But this also means, on systems that maintain a date (both the camcorder and audio recorder) that you have to reset the date every time you insert the batteries again, a hassle when you’re trying to capture something before it disappears. Or you can cope with everything having a time stamp of January 1, 2000, just after midnight. I’ve dealt with this too, and it messes with decent sorting and cataloging.
So, how to avoid these? There’s no simple solution. Spare batteries, of course, and maintaining a charging schedule works best – with a lot of batteries for different devices, this can be more of a chore than it sounds, especially when a full charge can take hours on some of these. You end up with a rack of chargers that you monitor periodically to remove or swap batteries when they’re charged.
Definitely, charge everything before an important session, like a paid gig. I was charging batteries for two days before the wedding, to be sure that I had everything and spares. Thankfully, I didn’t have to do one swap (most of the batteries I have are decent capacity, and none failed,) but being able to switch quickly is paramount when stuff is happening.
The batteries that aren’t able to be monitored, like dry cells in the mics and so on? Voltage and amp testing of these is fussy, so it’s up to you and your habits as to how useful this is – I only do it when something is looming, but for paid gigs, I just swap for new. Batteries are not good for landfills and, even in places that claim to recycle them, many don’t, so I use the batteries until they’re determinedly dead before I discard them. Most of the AAs that I use are rechargeable anyway, but some devices (like the Sony mic) don’t like the power curve of rechargeables – they’re virtually always 1.2 volts instead of the 1.5 of dry cells, and often lower mah ratings than alkalines – so there’s a limit to those too.
Monitor your usage. There’s no easy way to do this either, except for meticulous notes, but over time you’ll get a feel for when a set of batteries isn’t lasting as long as before, and then it’s time to have a new set waiting in the wings. Especially, carry a backup with you every chance you can, which is what camera bags are good for, but stuff some in your pocket if you aren’t carrying the bag. It’s impossible to be prepared for everything, and I get caught from time to time, but far less so once I realized how often these things occur.
Quality batteries. This does not necessarily mean name-brand or original equipment manufacturer, and in far too many cases (most camera brands, certainly,) this actually means you’re paying a lot more for the same thing than if you just bought aftermarket. Though admittedly, many aftermarket brands suck, so finding the ones that don’t takes time and research. I can say I’ve had as good luck with Kastar batteries as I have with Canon’s own; there remains a chance that Canon’s are actually a rebranded Kastar or something similar – a lot of manufacturers don’t actually have factories for their own batteries, among other things, and simply relabel some other brand’s offerings.
Along those same lines, however, I worked in Florida with a wedding photographer that bought AAs in bulk for flash units, some off-brand source. We routinely voltage-tested all of them before we put them in the bag, since one out of every eight to ten was literally without any charge at all. When used in a sequence of four like in a flash, they work, briefly, the other batteries covering the slack. But a dead battery in a sequence will actually get reverse polarized by the others and soon wreck the power curve and longevity of all of them, leading you to wonder what the hell is going on. Not a bad habit to test all new dry cells before use.
So, here’s hoping you learn a little from my mistakes and don’t repeat them – at least, too often. It’s impossible to avoid getting caught at times, but we can reduce the number of these with good habits.















































































